Restoring the finish
of an older RV using ZWLFF:

-Zep Wet Look Floor finish (Step 3) (available at Home Depot)
-Bar Keeper’s Friend (powdered)
-TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered)
-3M scrubbies (white, fine)
-Microfiber rags (white or laundered)
-Latex gloves

Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the ZWLFF acrylic coating, and improper prep can also result in peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The prep-work is the most important part! Do not try to cut corners here. The cleaner your RV is, the better your final results will be.

Step 1: Start by washing your RV well as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, and rinsing well from the top down.

Step 2: You now want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then liberally sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go (Rinsing well is important to remove all BKF residue. I used a "flow-thru" brush attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).

Step 3: Next you want to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the RV, since any residual wax can cause the ZWLFF to peel and flake. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to wash the entire RV again. You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washer…anything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well as you go, then rinse again and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard part is done!

Step 4: Now comes the easy part. Shake the ZWLFF well, and pour some into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip it into the ZWLFF (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet microfiber rag. Don’t try to apply a heavy coat or try to “rub it in”; just wet the surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles, and don’t worry about overlaps; ZWLFF is very thin/watery and you are just trying to “moisten” the surface. Work your way all the way around the RV. The thin coat of ZWLFF will dry very quickly; long before you’ve gone all the way around it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat.

That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy, shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have a new lease on life! All for less than $30 total!

*Note: This procedure will slightly change/darken the color/shade of your RV.

Things (I learned) to keep in mind:
-Don’t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.
-Don’t try to “over-apply”, or try for a heavy coat, or you will get runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, you’re just trying to “moisten” the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If you are getting a lot of runs, you’re applying it too heavily.
-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the ZWLFF is very watery and will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. ZWLFF dries fast, so keep an eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to “set up”.
-Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag and surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage (steps 2 and 3), then give a quick wipe of ZWLFF across the graphics prior to step 4, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the ZWLFF to the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as per step 4 of the tutorial.

-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The ZWLFF acrylic coating can sort of “glue” them closed

The black material is a foam rubber pad between the flooring and the floor itself.  Pergo flooring and others are consider a floating floor
which means that they are held in place by the side moldings. The pad allows the floor to moves side to side and end to end as it expands
and contracts with the temp and humidity.  It is about 3/16 inch thick and has and has no other properties.  I use a little duct tape to hold
it in place until the floor is down,it will not move when it is finished.   It also comes in other colors depending on who makes it
and some use a pink rosin paper, but I like the foam stuff best. Cost is $30 to $50 a roll and one roll will do the coach.  The first set of
pictures was a 26' coach and the second was of the 30' stretch.

Material cost vary depend on which style, finish and manufacture that you buy.  I probably had right at $200 for all materials and I make
and finish my own side and end moldings as they can added another $150+ if you buy the matching stuff from the manufacture.  I also
screw my moulding to the floor and not nail so I could remove them if I ever had to repair the flooring.

Tools are very simple, cut off saw, hand saw, rubber hammer, 12 oz hammer, drill, setting block and setting bar.  Just read the
instruction for the floor that you buy.

The main reason we went with the Pergo style flooring is that it is so easy to clean and keep clean.  We could never get all the sand and
dirt out of the carpets when we were in Florida.  Just sweep and use a damp rag and it is done.  JR WRIGHT
I installed Pergo in our GMC and later on, in our SOB.  Beautiful stuff but it is impossible to keep looking clean.  I finally ripped the stuff out of
the SOB (sold the GMC) and installed a single piece of very expensive, floating, vinyl/linoleum and it looks gorgeous and always looks clean.
Plus, it is much easier to clean than the Pergo.  We just finished a one month trip and my wife will never have a Pergo or Pergo type floor again.

Each of you have asked what materials were used in my recent fiberglass repair project so the following is a recap of the products finally selected.   These selections, particularly the Evercoat products, were triggered by a remark I found on Jim Bounds' daily blog in which he reacted to a debate on GMCnet regarding SMC repairs in which he wrote something like this:

       "This time, the "old guys" don't have it right--what you should do is follow the advice found on Corvette discussion boards related to later model body repairs."

Jim's advice eventually led me to the Everlast products identified below.  Prior repairs in the same area of our coach involved epoxy resins and lots of Bondo, all of which failed when I tried to move a large tree with the left rear corner of the coach and opened up old repairs in the same area.   TAP Plastics proved to be a good source of fiberglass fabrics and advice (except for their unfamiliarity with the idiosyncrasies of SMC).

This project was my first venture into fiberglass repair and with these products made it pretty easy to achieve decent appearing results for even a novice.  Will the new materials perform well in the long run?  Time will tell.
       Tape   4" (heavy woven mat for backside use)

        Glass mat (3/4 oz -random) for frontside filling

         Woven Roving fabric for front side lower layer use

SMC Resin:    Evercoat SMC-Compatible Polyester Fiberglass Resin

Filler:  Evercoat "Quantum 1"
      Quantum 1:

      Low temp catalyst:

     High temp catalyst:

Clearcoat finish:   KBS Coatings "Diamond Finish"
      (Purchased but yet to be applied, can be applied by roller)

Painting was done using the "$50 Rustoleum paint job" roller methods found on many hot-rod bulletin boards and YouTube videos with the exception of use of "Rust Stop", a private-label version of Rustoleum carried only by Ace Hardware---with the big advantage that Ace Hardware can color-tint the paint to match. Johnb


For those of you that are using Kroil which is good, there is a better solution.

Machinist's Workshop (2007/04) magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker. The magazine arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a” scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil Average load
None                    516 pounds
WD-40                 238 pounds
PB Blaster           214 pounds
Liquid Wrench     127 pounds
Kano Kroil           106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix 53 pounds

N.B. The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Here are the results of the test of the ATF/Acetone verses PS/Acetone.


Although neither material mixes into a homogeneous solution the ATF/ Acetone combination does not separate very rapidly as compared with
the PS/Acetone combination that separates almost immediately after shaking.

I have not yet tried the AFT/Acetone mixture, but I have several friends that use it and swear by it.

The pressurized sprayers are the best solution when using this mix as
Bob & Terry have suggested.

Harbor Freight also sells cans like that:

*ITEM 1102-DAA      ***
*ITEM 65297-DAA   **

Seem to be only available in the stores ( and not

You can draw your own conclusions!
Several of our members have tried it and swear by it. J.R. Wright

Back Hatch Screw Replacement

By  Dan Winchester


If you really, really, really, want to make it all disappear then make a single hole and cut an aluminum patch that fits as exactly as possible into the hole. Make a second patch about an inch larger overall. Flush rivet the larger to the inside of the roof with suitable sealant between, then fit the smaller into the hole and flush rivet it to the first.

Plan 2, flush rivet a single patch to the inside of the roof covering all holes and fill the holes with bondo.

Plan 3, put rubber washers over suitable sized screws, coat with sealant and use them to fill the small holes, make an aluminum patch to cover the large hole(s), coat with sealant and screw in place with sheet metal screws or pop rivet.Glenn Giere

 This is how I patched my Roof Vents.  It is a lot bigger than what you need but the same principle.

Do you know if anyone has ever attempted to Aluminum TIG weld a to repair a roof hole?

Don't forget that the ceiling, like the walls, has been sprayed with VERY flammable urethane foam.  Welding it without totally protecting that foam is an almost sure way to destroy the coach. 

Elem Fayard (a deceased Dixielander famous for Bob Drewes' and Tom Whitton's amazing coaches, as well as many of the fiberglass accessories' designs) burned his 23' to the ground in just a few minutes when attempting that.Ken H.


If you are talking about the outside body belt molding that goes from side marker light front to back, I know Cinnabar has it as do I believe the Jims and Gateway lists it and probably Grandview as well.

What type of plastic are the "Tee" skirts made of?

It all depends.  You don't say what motorhome model you have but I looked you up and find that you have a 1977 Royale.
The GMC finished motorhomes at that time used SCM (Sheet Molded Compound) the same as used on the main bodies of the GMC.
Since you have a Royale  really all depends on what Coachmen Industries decided to use at the time or perhaps what a prior owner put on.
There have been people that have produced a laid up fiberglass T skirt. 

If you look inside the T skirt you can usually tell.  If it is smooth and has mold marks with smooth ribs it is probably SCM.  If it is rough fiberglas then it is laid up work. Emory  S

Black Tank
If its an original tank its polypropylene.   Emery.

You cannot repair polypropylene tanks with polyethylene materials.
If you have the Maintenance Manual X7525 check out page 24L-3.
I bought a tank repair kit from Arrow Trailer Supply in Montclair, Ca. over 6 years and 60,000 miles ago. The tank has had a lot of use and the patch is still holding.
Other trailer supply or RV stores probably have the same thing.
The kit was a piece of fiberglass mesh fabric and a tube of black resin or glue. I think it also had a piece of sand paper to roughen the area to be repaired. Cost about 15 bucks.
--Gene Barrow

Water Tank

Our water  tanks are polyethylene; here's a video I ran across on
> how to repair polyethylene.  It mentions that the material has to be
> "flamed" before repair.  <   Kirk
.  The fresh water tank is polyethylene.
If you have the Maintenance Manual X7525 check out page 24L-3.
Better use a piece of polyethylene instead.

You can get pieces of it by just cutting strips from a plastic milk bottle.
Your idea of using a solder gun is good. Weller has a large flat tip available that let's one "paddle" the melted surface.

Sometimes, though, the plastic gets so old and brittle and the plastisizer dries out so it won't hold together even when welded.emery


I have had great success using a furniture refinisher's knife (low temp soldering iron with a very wide tip) but it was not quite hot enough without a heat gun to warm the fresh water tank plastic.  For one repair I used plastic from another tank for to fill the crack on the other I used hot glue gun sticks.  Both approaches worked very well - the repairs have lasted 3 years so far without a hitch.  I preheated the plastic to be worked with a hot air gun and first melted one side of the split into the other side before adding new stuff.  I also sealed leaks in my black water tank at the sending unit by covering the leaking screws and seals and all else with hot glue gun plastic.  It was an on the road repair but it lasted without incident so far.  I expect that when it leaks next time, I will find an easier process or replace the entire tank. DougN


is only for 73/74 coaches
I used "CRL Black 5/64" Sealstrip Glass Tape" for the fixed windows.  One roll was about twice as much as I needed for our 1973 23' coach.   Soapy water helped with getting this back into the channels once the tape is wrapped over the glass edges.  (it's not really "tape" since it's not sticky).  Trim the rubber tape back after the window is in place.

I also used the usual fuzzy channel stuff others have mentioned for the sliding windows.  At the time JimK was out of fuzzy channel, so I got it from vintage trailer supply.   Others have mentioned other sources/versions which may fit more tightly, but the stuff I got is holding up OK after 4 years.

When you've got your 73/74 windows apart, make sure you apply RTV or other sealant to the splines that hold them together or it'll still leak.  See:

The above is only for 73/74 coaches.  The window construction changed completely in 75 - KB

They have 200' minimums but it is not expensive at all.  Jeff

They had to make it? More like order it from overseas...
Good stuff anyway. Chris

At the GMCWS rally I saw a few coaches with the white rubber trim, it looked good, of those that I asked they didn't know of a source for it. The trim was in when the coach was bought.
 Any problems with the white rubber trim?

 the problem is that your windows were not designed to use it.  There is a groove in the aluminum extrusion of the window frame that the white rubber trim goes into.
You don't have this on the earlier windows. emery

Window Channel

a source for window channel material.  I got mine from Danno Enterprised
in Port St. John FL., 321 452-8101.  Their part
number is AS1268, (They reference number 75-0639 which is the manufacturers

Mine is 8 foot but perhaps they have longer available.  It was $8.00 per 8'
length.  Glen

Cockpit   Bulging "Chipmunk Cheeks"

Here is one photo album by Richard Sowers...


The bulging fiberglass on each side of the cockpit is sometimes called "Chipmunk Cheeks" and is present to some extent on most GMC's. 

I suspect most of us have just filled the gap with spray foam or caulk and avoid looking down the side of the coach.

 A more complete fix is to remove the rubber rub strip on the beltline and install flat head screws from the outside into the inner wall before the
sealing.  Replacing the rub strip covers the screw heads.

The most complete fix I've seen was by a Corvette specialist who gave a presentation at a GMCES rally several years ago:  He used some sort of two part adhesive, the specifics of which I don't recall, to adhere a fiberglass angle to the inside of the fiberglass after pushing it into place from the outside.  Both the adhesive and screws held it the floor.

You might pioneer the use of the aluminum angle adhered with 3M 5200.  I'd back it up with the screws through the beltline though. KenH


The process that gene used was to drill the holes through the belt line when the rubber was removed, the holes went through the SMC into the metal structure in the cab.
He used small flat head bolts to pull the "Chipmunk Cheek" flat to match the profile of the rest of the coach.

That still left a space between the floor and the side of the cab. To fix that he used a piece of 90 degree angle aluminum, angledown, glued with 3M 8115 Panel Bonding Adhesive (black) for aluminum to aluminum to bond the aluminum angle to the existing floor structure. He backed that up with rivets (mainly to hold things in place while the adhesives setup).

 What is very hard to see in the photo is that he used a scrap peace of SMC between the aluminum angle and the side of the coach to deal with the difference between the flat aluminum angle and the curve in the side of the coach.

He used 8219 Panel Adhesive for SMC to metal/SMC, to adhere the SMC strip to the aluminum angle, then sanded the SMC strip to match the side of the coach. Then he used the 8219 Panel Adhesive again to adhere the aluminum angle, SMC sandwich to the side of the coach.

The holes were pre-drilled for the rivets, those are what is used to hold the aluminum angle/smc in place while the two types of adhesive setup. Hope that helps.....RichardS 


The plastic is ABS. I repaired some cracks and holes in mine using West System epoxy.
For cracks and small hole I used aluminum duct tape as backer for the epoxy.
For the larger holes I also used fiberglass mat as reinforcement.
To simulate the pebble finish I used A SEM product for that purpose and after painted the panels with SEM.  Tony


 I have a couple of repairs to do to the Generator and Propane Doors.  Also may need to do some work up by the Clearance Lights.
 I want to make sure I get the right materials if it's SMC. KEN

SMC is interesting.  It is a reinforced plastic that can be shaped with heat and pressure.  The important thing to you is that the plastic matrix usually includes a mold release.  Much of this is supposed to migrate to the mold (tooling) surfaces during the process, but not all of it does and so when you cut, sand or crack the material, there will be release agent exposed.  For this reason, it is essential that you clean any surface you choose to glue, adhere or paint with a very strong solvent - like acetone.

Do not both with car store fiberglass patch kits.  Those are all polyester resins and their adhesive strength is not real good.  Use only epoxy and glass cloth or fillers.  Do not use autoparts (or even cheap boat store) fiberglass mat as it has a binder that is incompatible with epoxy - it is only for polyester or vinylester resins.

My personal advice:
Go get the West System (not West Marine - these are the Gougeon Bros of Bay City, Mi) books on fiberglass repair.  You might find the books on a shelf at a marine store (even West), but you might end up having to order them.  Read them at least once.  Then go get a set of small cans and pumps.  (Buy the pumps - you will never miss a mix.)

West stuff costs more and if you buy it at a boat store it might as well say RV special for the price, but it will be worth every penny.

As you will be working small areas in low temperatures, get the 205 hardener.  Enough to be about 1/2 inch in the bottom of a sour cream container will not go exothermic too fast and you should have a working time of about an half an hour.

Get some gloves for your hands and vinegar to clean up the uncured material.  Get someone to work with you at least the first couple of go-rounds because you will need someone with clean hands to do things sticky hands can't do.

If you need to work cloth at all, have two pairs of scissors handy.  One set is for cutting the clean dry cloth and should never be near mixed epoxy.  The second should be cheap and disposable because you will need them to trim cloth and fibers of saturated glass material and if you do not get to cleaning them soon enough, they will no longer be a pair of scissors.

If you need surface fillers, just get the microlight for the epoxy and make it up at the density you want as you need it - don't go buying pre-packaged filler. MATT

As far as painting the chassis and other metal parts to protect from rust, POR-15 is a very good product. 

I must however mention a product that I prefer instead of the POR-15.  It was developed by one of the original POR-15 guys when the POR-15 company refused to add new products to their line.  Pat Mastrincola developed MasterCoat, a similar product, but I think it has more solids in it.  MasterCoat was the first to have a special black chassis paint.  Check the label and do a little research for yourself.  I used POR-15 on the rear axle assembly of my 56' Tbird.  It looked great, but after several years it turned ultra-flat chalky black.  I wasn't happy.  I did the front end parts with the MasterCoat chassis black about a year later and it still looks like the day I painted it. 

I prep everything in a glass bead booth, solvent rinse, let dry and paint.  You can brush on the MasterCoat and it just flows out with no brush streaks. 

Now, for about 1/4th the price, you can use Rustoleum rusty metal primer and top coat that with Rustoleum INDUSTRIAL black - enamel.  Make sure it is the industrial stuff.  You can find it at the Depot on the bottom shelf in the paint section.  TomE
I havee always used transmission fluid in the belief that it creeps very well and will not 'eat'  rubber components.  At first I was using a compressor and old paint gun, but now whenever I slide under the GMC I take a spray bottle of trans fluid and soak it down.  I'm under enough to give most parts a spray at least every second year. Mike


  a few years ago we had a Toyo tire co. representative speak at an SOB rally.

 His position was that they do no good; he maintained that the vast majority of the surface deterioration of tires is due to ozone, not sunlight.  Covers don't slow down ozone.

The same tire rep, during the same presentation, was adamant that NO tire "protectant" should be used.  He would not, for obvious reasons, name the product, but said that one of the most popular would definitely harm their (Toyo) tires -- and probably others. KenH


I've some cracks in my fender liners and have tried fiberglass as a fix but it doesn't stick. What is the best way to patch these things? What is the
best way to prep for painting? Glen,

The only satisfactory repair on the front wheel liners I know of is plastic welding.    JohnS


I have successfully welded cracks in the wheel wells by using a plastic welding gun and a strip of plastic cut from the bottom edge of the wheel well. The plastic welding guns are available from Harbor freight for a one time repair or a quality gun can be had from any autobody supply house. HTH.....Terry


.Somewhat related. Rear wheelhouse panel changed from Polyplastic to SMC/Fibreglas with TZExx4V101022 Approx 12/18/73
David Lee Greenberg


Being # 295 off the line from the beginning of production, there are several things you may want to look at.  I like early model coaches, have 2 of them.  I look at them as a "box of chocolates", you never know what you have to you bite in!

o  The floor is a single layer plywood construction, later models had a composite wood, foam, aluminum floor construction, The mufflers had a nasty habit of burning and charring the bottomside of the floor.  74 models started in with heat shields between the floor and mufflers.

o  Steve Ferguson found that the early coaches "A" arms needed more reinforcement, you want to be sure there are no crackes around the lower ball joints and that the shock mounts are not loose.

o  Locating the air suspension tank under the battery was a brain fart, also the regulator for the system was reading line not tank pressure.  A replumbing and relocating of the system would really help it work better.  Get one of JR Slaten's "Power Level II" dash valve kits-- solds 50% of your air ride troubles.

o  Make sure the screws that hold the window latches are in good shape, if you loose a latch---- well, lets say they are made of "unobtanium"!

o  The dash AC systen stinks, collect enough $ to add an under dash AC eveap/blower if you want ant dash AC cold air.

o  The "A" frame windows (the window frame holding 3 pieces of glass at the driver and pass. seats) were put in with screws on the early coaches.  They figured out how to install them better later.  These windows are "leakers".  We seal completely around the frame to body ---- of course you could drill holes in the floor to let the water out!

o  The rest of the side windows on the early coaches were also "leakers".  The frame is a 4 piece "brake apart" design with no sealant at the joints.

o  The rear panel screws on a 73 were threaded into brass "inserts" in the SMC body.  I would not suggest you try and take them out.  They are usually rusted in place.  On 73 models we usually sand blast the screws, hit them with Ospho (a rust killer) then prime/seal and paint them the body color and leave them alone.  Removing them all could end up being a big job.

o  The generator compartment covers sometimes leak fumes into the interior,  I would remove the generator, clean it up and totally seal and insulate the generator compartment.  There was a story I heard from on of the interior design engineers at a GMCMI convention who told about the early coaches and the less than wonderful detail of the sealing of the generator.  Since, I have seen what she was talking about.

o  If the motor still uses a point dist, loose it for an HEI set up.  Gives a much better spark and easier to maintain.

o  Don't lock the entry door without using a key, I have seen early coach latch mechanisms bind up.  I would just use the key on any model, not push the stem down on the inside and hold the handle---- you just never know!

o  Keep the rear suspension pins lubed, the early coach used smaller diameter pins-- no problem if you keep the greased up.

o  Do not blow the air bags completely and drop the back to the ground, the wheels hit the liners and crack them.  Later models had cut outs to provent this.

o  Your coach was originally plumbed with copper pipes on the fresh water system.  1973 only, later models used plastic piping.  Sweated copper fittings do not like to  bump and twist going down the road, watch for leaks!

So now that I've scared you to death, the 73 models are no bigger trouble than any of the other ones, like I said I like them, I have 2 --- actually 3 of them.  Just know you have the first year, prototype model and watch for this special stuff.  There are other things about the 73 modles, didn't want to make this post too long.

Let me know if you have any other questions, Jim Bounds


JB Weld worked for my grill. That was recommended by Max Pardy at Buskirk-Rush. That's how they did it. ErvT

I have made some repairs to my grill.  I had several cracks, all the nubs that go through the smc body were drilled out and some pieces were missing.
The grill is made of the same material your black pipings is, ABS.
for cracks, try to feed some of the solvent for gluing ABS into the crack and let set.  It should be a strong hold.
For areas missing material, you can take a piece of the ABS pip and shred it to small bits, a little larger than sand, I just cut it with a hack saw blade and used the chips that were made from cutting.
form the piece you are replacing on the VISIBLE side with masking tape, if it needs to be shiny, use a clear plastic bag where it will touch the material, keep as smooth as possible, no wrinkles.
make a mush of the ABS chips and solvent until it is pastey and thick, then on the back side, smear the paste into the space to be occupied with new material.  Give a few extral pushes by the sides where it touches the old material.  It is ok to put a bit more on than needed, it will shrink over a week to two week period as it cures.

Any space between the old and new material can be filled in again and any rough surface can be bondo-ed.  Sand smooth and paint.
Where I tried to replace my nubs I found I had too little area to glue to so am trying a slot design now.  Too new to report on now.
I had good luck with this and it keeps the material more or less virgin, incase there are future repairs.
And if you are careful, it isn't all that messy either.  I mixed and applied the material with a popcycle stick.

If you are filling a void, be aware that the material will shrink a bit as it cures so dont paint for a couple weeks.  I had waited a few days, being my first attempt at repair and then painted.  A week or so later I could see where the material pulled in slightly, not unattractively, but I know its there.

This will get you fixed. LarC